Why are you surfing?

趣味がサーフィンですが、サーフィンは私にとって単なる趣味以上のもので、そのことを英語で説明したい場面が多くあります。

My hobby is surfing. and sometimes I want to discribe that sufing is not just about hobby but more something, so to speak style of life,

そのことをこのムービーは上手く英語で表しているので紹介します。

So now can I introduce this movie that discribe sufing is not only sport but more like style of life.

http://www.bbc.co.uk/programmes/p05kqt42

アイスランドのプロサーファーのドキュメントムービーであり、その厳しい環境でサーフィンをする理由が、まさに私が言いたいことと同じなのだ。

This is a movie about a surfer in island, and the reason why he keeps on surfing in island such a hard place is what I wanna say about sufing.

以下がその内容です。

below is content of movie.

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Being a surfer in Island, it's hard.

You put your thick wetsuit on.

There's a lot of current and the waves are big and heavy.

The water doesn't  freeze until -8 degrees because it's salt water.

It's really cold.

Heidar has struggled with ADHD since childhood.

With all tje energy inside me feeling it was stuck inside and having no way to express it, 

I started  to become depressed.

That's when  I first remember having suicidal thoughts as a kid.

And those aren't thoughts a six-year-old is supported to have.

Heider discovered sufing at 15...

and  it dramatically affected his ADHD.

After good day of sufing, you abusolutely complety beat.

And that feeling of having burned so much energy and being so tired.

That's what  I love about surfing.

Heidar has been surfing  profecianally for two years...

and  has founded  he can cope without his ADHD medication.

For me surfing has absolutelly changed my life.

It's given me a reason  to live a healthy lifestyle and take care of myself and make something  of myself.

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